GE Appliance Repair Service — Burrard Appliance Repair

Water pooling under the crisper drawers

This is one of the most common GE fridge complaints, and it almost always comes down to a defrost drain that's frozen over or blocked, usually after a door's been left slightly open longer than anyone noticed.

Ice maker not dispensing, bin stays full

The auger motor that pushes cubes out of the bin wears down over years of regular use, and on some models the dispenser flap sticks closed as an early sign of the same problem.

Compressor buzzing or cycling too often

GE's newer linear compressors run quieter than older models, so any buzzing or unusually frequent cycling is worth a listen, often it's a failing start relay rather than the compressor itself.

Frost building up on the freezer's back wall

A worn door gasket lets warm, humid air sneak in every time the door opens, and that moisture settles as frost on the coldest surface it can find, usually the back panel.

Won't spin, lid switch not engaging

GE top-loaders need the lid switch to confirm the lid is closed before the motor will spin, and a worn switch or a lid that's slightly warped from years of use will stop the cycle here every time.

UB error, unbalanced load

A genuinely uneven load causes this most of the time, but worn suspension springs or a foot that's lost contact with the floor produce the identical symptom on a perfectly balanced wash.

Dryer tumbles but produces no heat

A blown thermal fuse or a burnt-out heating element are the two usual suspects, and the thermal fuse in particular tends to blow when a lint-choked vent restricts airflow more than the dryer's designed for.

Loud squealing during the dryer cycle

A worn idler pulley is the classic cause, a small wear part that keeps tension on the drum belt and gradually gets noisier as it wears down.

Won't start when the door closes

A door latch that's not fully engaging or a control board that's stopped registering the closed signal are the two most likely reasons, and it's worth checking the latch mechanism first since it's the simpler fix.

Dishes not getting clean

Clogged spray arm jets are the most common culprit, gradually blocked by mineral deposits or food particles until water pressure across the rack drops off.

Water left standing in the tub

A failing drain solenoid or a clogged filter basket typically explain this, and GE's filter needs a monthly rinse to keep up with regular use.

Loud humming with no visible movement

This usually points to the drain pump struggling against a blockage rather than a failed motor outright, worth checking the filter and drain hose before assuming the worst.

F2 error, oven running too hot

This code flags the oven exceeding its expected temperature range, almost always traced back to a faulty temperature sensor rather than anything wrong with the heating elements themselves.

Burner igniter clicking without lighting

Food debris or moisture sitting around the igniter electrode on gas models is the most frequent cause, and a thorough clean solves it more often than not.

F7 or F3 error during self-clean

Both point to the door lock mechanism not engaging correctly before the self-clean cycle can safely begin, usually from a worn lock motor rather than anything electrical.

One surface burner not heating on electric models

The element itself has likely failed at a visible break, or the receptacle it plugs into underneath has worn out from years of insertions and removals.